Jackson Harlem is an American menswear designer, author, vocalist, and spoken-word performance artist.  At a young age, Harlem began his studies in textile and fashion illustration and at 13  published his first award-winning poem “What You Cannot Do”.

In 2007, Harlem launched a menswear brand J.HAR, featuring bold men’s suiting and shirting. In 2008, items from Harlem’s first offering were featured on BET’s 106 & Park.

Inspired by his tumultuous personal tragedy, Harlem created JACK by Jackson Harlem, a new breed of high-end sportswear. The controversial collection is underway, lead by the infamous JACK Shark Polo Knits which made their debut in Tokyo’s Shibuya District and Boston, MA in 2008.

Explain the concept behind your Jackson Harlem line?

The JACK Icon Eyewear is a bold signature frame inspired by the classic wayfarer, but blown up to a larger scale. A lot of guys wanted a really bold look, so JACK Icons responded back  with a variety of frames colors, patterns, and lens options.

At what point in your life did you decide you wanted to change the face of fashion?

About two years ago, a group of Harvard grads burned their Ralph Lauren and Lacoste clothes after buying some of my JACK Shark Polo Knits. I hadn’t formally released the JACK Shark Polos, but the video hit it big on YouTube before I could get the guys to take it down.

Without any press, celebrity endorsement, or product photos, tons of guys started requesting the shirts via my Facebook page while others made racist remarks. But when established fashion brands began sending me hate mail after I’d gotten the JACK Shark Polos in a few stores, I began to understand my greater potential as an artist and businessman.

I speak more about this situation in my next book, The Harlem Manifesto: EAT & PREY.

From start to finish, could you describe your design process?

I usually begin with an emotion or point of criticism. Then I personify that emotion into a garment sketch using color, shape, and embroidery. When the sketch is right, I almost immediately need to make the first sample. After the sample, I try it on a model and edit the fit from there until it’s perfect. Then I photograph it on different sized models to get different, real-life perspectives. I don’t have a factory, so I usually dye and sew whatever I can by hand.

Who are your influences, past or present, in the fashion world?

Michael Jackson, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Lauren and Ricardo Tisci. Each man has fought for his unique perspective and concept of individuality to influence culture. That fight is what I’m fighting now.

Describe a day in your life.

At 4AM I wake up and run for half an hour. After showering, I write and respond to emails and comb my hair. When the sun comes up, I work on editing samples or hit the road meeting with artists about their performance attire. I’m working on a tour wardrobe for R&B artists now.

What is your favorite pasttime?

Reading, particularly scripture and poetry.

What is your favorite vacation spot?

I wouldn’t know. I like to work.

Name five things that you cannot live without.

Bible, cranberry apple juice, Del Toro velvet slippers, JACK Icons and really good music.

Who are some of your favorite designer labels to purchase?

I only buy shoes since I create menswear now. Prada platform brogues, Del Toro velvet slippers, and Clark’s Wallabees are shoes I swear by. I need to work harder to stock up on more Jeremy Scott sneakers as well.

Where do you see your fashion house in 10 years?

With a flagship store and a few remote stores, but with improved knowledge and skills about design construction. I have a lot to learn and I love working hard for my clients.

What is your favorite cocktail?

I don’t drink often, but I like martinis. Is that bad?

What separates you from the rest of the designers, past and present?

I think of garments the way Picasso thought of his paintings: as elements from his life instead of referring to an era, trend, or style. Picasso’s blue period illustrates a very autobiographical period in his emotional life. I design through autobiography. That probably makes me more like a painter than a designer.

Who do you consider to be the best dressed celebrities of our time?

Scott Disick, Kanye West, Mark Ronson, Virgil Abloh, and Usher. I love working with guys who aren’t afraid to push the concept of masculinity.

Name five trends that you would not be caught dead in?

Skinny jeans, oversized sweaters, drop-crotched pants, men wearing black nail polish, and sagging.

What advice would you give yourself 10 years ago?

Shut up, work harder, manage your money better and believe in yourself a hell of a lot more because you’re Jackson Harlem and it’s going to happen.

For more, visit JACKSON HARLEM.

Images courtesy of Jackson Harlem.

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